Behind our matsukasa-yaki shiro amadai
Behind our matsukasa-yaki shiro amadai
The fish’s edible scales crisp into a pinecone-like pattern. Typically hot oil is poured over them to create this effect, a technique that has recently been adopted by many cuisines. Our approach is different: we slowly and carefully crisp the scales over Kishū binchōtan, letting the tilefish’s natural fats do the work. We find that added oil is unnecessary and distracts from the beauty of this already incredibly rich fish (behold the “white-out” flesh filled with fat).
It’s a process that requires several days. Taisho first blooms the scales with water, then dries and ages the fish, which also concentrates its flavour.
Using the purest Kishū binchōtan is essential for this dish. It imparts very little smoky flavour, allowing the shiro amadai’s natural taste to shine. As the fat renders over the coals, it “self-seasons”. The far-infrared radiation emitted from the dense ubame oak coals brings the flesh to a mid rare before the scales start to burn.
Much like our daily communications with our fish vendors and liaisons, obtaining an allocation of a few boxes a year of Kishū binchōtan is no small feat. We source charcoal directly from Kisyu Sumikobo in Wakayama, which we import directly into Canada. Kishū binchōtan is a limited production currently being produced by very few people and in our case, reserved for chefs whose cuisine president Yuta Tsuji personally approves. We constantly strive to live up to this honor.
#michelinstar #omakase #edomae #sushi #binchotan
